It’s Here.
Yesterday, our shipment from the States arrived! All 663 pounds of our belongings. Technically, most of that weight was mine since Ryan got his shipment a year ago now. But he had some guitars in there to balance out … Continue reading
Tag: writing
Part IX: Waves. Words.
OB, SF Surfers constitute some six million travelers, whether they paddle out at their local breaks or trek their boards across the globe in search of waves and, by extension, new cultures, geographies, and ways of being. Yet, once out … Continue reading
Part VIII: Women in the Water
Credit: Duke University Press Only after weeding through nearly 100 years of surfing history, only after reading first-person accounts and speaking with experienced surfers, only after understanding my own experience in the water a bit better, do I feel prepared … Continue reading
SURF LESSONS: Part I
Watching the Waves, Rodeo Beach, Fort Cronkite I have attempted to surf three times in my life—each experience is emotionally distinct and only one could be deemed at all “successful” (I’ll get around to sharing them all). In the meantime, … Continue reading
Seeing How We Go
Sydney, 2008 Never have I ever kept a personal blog. While I’ve made my living as a magazine editor and contributor, write fiction in every spare hour I can find, and have a trunk full of journals, I’ve lacked the … Continue reading