Restoration on Rapa Nui

Just as it’s an island of many names—Rapa Nui, Easter Island, Isla de Pascua—it’s also an island with many stories, histories, and much mystery. (At one point, the Rapa Nui population dwindled down to just 111 people—due to slavery, conflict, and imported disease.) It’s a complicated story and tensions remain. But it’s also a beautiful story of perseverance, and that beauty, then and now, is as undeniable as its landscape—at once reminiscent of the ends of the world as well as its very early beginnings.

 

A taste of it all:
Mo’ai statues, the rocky Pacific coast,
off in the distance the village of Hanga Roa,
where the majority of the island’s inhabitants live,
and the freedom we had to explore this island-wide archeological site.

 

Some of those stories and that air of mystery will no doubt find their way into posts for weeks to come. It’s that kind of a place—it doesn’t leave you, nor do you want it to. For now, I’ll share facts and photos… of the mo’ai sculptures that represented the ancestors of the Rapa Nui people, of the comforting Pacific Ocean we love so, of the many animals that roam free over this lush landscape, and of course a heart or two.

 

Standing at ease at Ahu Tangariki.
These, like all mo’ai, were once toppled.
The ahu (sacred burial platform on which the mo’ai stand)
was also destroyed in 1960’s tsunami.
Japan led the restoration of this site.

 

Doing so feels in line with the spirit ‘Notes from the Southern Hemisphere’ was founded in—to chronicle all the amazing things we have the opportunity to see living on the other side of the world. Along the way, we’ve had adventures and made adjustments, and our hearts have been broken.

 

On Rapa Nui, Ryan is a tourist first, surfer second.

 

While the ultimate kind of “travel” inspired this blog, it’s also become a coping mechanism in its own right—a way for Ryan and I to journey right to the present moment, where we step outside and feel fortunate for a brand new view. For most, getting to Rapa Nui means days of travel. In our case, all we had to do was take a five-hour flight to the most isolated inhabited island in the world (it’s halfway to Tahiti). Here are several more angles on the magnificent view from there:

 

Morning view from our incredible oceanside cabaña at Te’Ora,
which means something like:
“the start of a new beginning.” I love that.

 

Only to be rivaled by sunsets like this.

 

Two of the more well-known mo’ai at Rana Raraku,
the quarry where the majority of some 1,000 mo’ai
were sculpted before being transported to their resting sites.
It could take up to six months to sculpt just one!
Also from Rana Raraku

 

Ryan captured a sense of the scope of this quarry.
History standing stock-still while the world grows up around it.

 

For scale: Ryan and I standing behind Ahu Tangariki.

 

You really do see them everywhere.

 

Ryan got this cool angle.

 

You’ll notice a reddish “top knot.”
It represented the often red hair of the ancient Rapa Nui people.
Like all mo’ai, it was carved from “tuff,” or compressed volcanic ash,
but from an entirely different volcano to achieve the color.

 

For comparison, a still-toppled, unrestored mo’ai
and top knot at Akahanga.
The beautiful horses of Rapa Nui, a common site.

 

I think we kept finding this same sweet family.

 

Easter Day find. We did spend Easter on Easter Island, after all.
The massive crater of the volcano at Orongo.

 

A traditional stone house. Inhabitants crawled through the small doorways,
built as a way to protect the home from weather and invasion.

 

The precious little rescue kitty at Te’Ora.
She took shade under a massive heart leaf. <3

 

And of course a sweet street pup, presiding over the village.
I got to swim laps in this swimming “bowl” every day.
One day, a couple of sea turtles joined me.

 

I also tried my hand at some open water swimming here at
Anakena, the only natural beach on the island and
where the first Polynesian settlers set up their village.
Street art symbolizing the Bird Man cult of Orongo.
Each spring, the Manutara bird flocked to the islets off Orongo.
An annual ceremony was held where a representative of each
Rapa Nui tribe raced to the islets to return with the first egg,
naming him Bird Man of the year.
The egg also represented fertility… here’s hoping.

 

And here’s to never once forgetting Lorenzo,
no matter how far Ryan and I travel in this life.
(Notice the heart formed by the two Bird Men?)

 

I dare say, it’s the happiest we’ve been in months.
I’ll always be grateful to Rapa Nui for showing us
a bit of our old selves in such a beautiful new place.

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