OB, SF

Surfers constitute some six million travelers, whether they paddle out at their local breaks or trek their boards across the globe in search of waves and, by extension, new cultures, geographies, and ways of being. Yet, once out in the water, they may all share a similar moment of the collective journey: the feeling of being right at home.

In the creation of this project, the act of writing has been the connective tissue I attach to surfing, to traveling. Even as I put this adventure out into the world, in many ways I’m left with a similar sensation I felt at its outset: envy. Envy for the surfer who prioritizes the waves, who yields, who commits in order to  catch a medium forever on the move.

My goal is to give the same respect to my writing, which requires many of the same lessons I’ve learned preparing to take on the ocean: patience, discipline, and the willingness to stretch beyond self-imposed limits. Waves. Words. Both are always breaking. It’s just a question of whether or not we show up to ride.